![]() ![]() I'm not sure I even wanna try what Greg's suggesting.lol. I had a spot I wanted to get into.and there was one SMALL tree. Now.it's a breeze.I keep my belts all the way in when packing.If you do this.you'll learn how to look at a tree's size and know if you have to let one side out a little (it'll make sense, soon). If not.this stand can be frustrating as heck the first few times. Set it up in youryard a few times to come up with your "system". I carry nothing else to stand (other than me and my bow). I carry a pruning saw, tether, haul line and bow hook in mine. You'll appreciate being able to do this when you mis-judge from the ground on your settings.Ħ. Work on adjusting your lower platform while you're "up". Set it up in a tree in your yard and go 3-4' up. You'll also want to experiment with differing distances between the upper and lower to know what's most comfortable for YOU.ĥ. It'll make for MUCH more comfortable sits. Make sure (when you set up) that your upper is angled "up" a little.and your platform is level. It still packs fine.and it saves a little time and possiblenoise when setting up in the dark.Ĥ. ![]() I leave my upper in the locked-out positionall the time. The straps that connect the upper to the lowr are fine.ģ. I never even put the stock ones on my stand.Ģ. Most likely I’ll use a rope for the stand as well.1. The second stick will be used with the “One stick method.” For that one I’ll stick with the strap and buckle since it’s easier and quicker to tighten, loosen, and adjust on the tree. One I will strap on the tree right away, and I’ll use a rope. In order to save time, I plan on using two sticks. Perhaps you’ve heard of the “One stick climbing method” before, where you use a rock climbing harness and one stick to climb as high as you want to go. Let me explain… I plan on using the “Two stick climbing method”. ![]() Will I be using the rope modification myself this year? Probably, at least in part. The climbing rope modification is lighter and quieter, but it also sags a bit more, takes longer to attach, and likely voids any Lone Wolf warranty. In summary, there are pros and cons to each. That being said, many people still use it. My arborist friend tells me that amsteel is a good option but is more susceptible to heat and abrasion damage. The static rope has a bit better abrasion resistance, but is very hard to find in a hunting friendly color by the foot. Update: The most common rope options for people looking for low stretch are 9mm static rope and 1/4″ or 5/16″ amsteel blue. The basic rope modification with 3/8″ amsteel rope: A link to that strategy is here:Īnother strategy is to use the UCRs, a constrictor rope system: Some people have added cam cleats to copy the Muddy climbing stick attachment method with a buckle-free rope. The lineup included a trio of stands, the 2.0, 1.0 and. There have been a couple different rope modification strategies floating around on the internet. Lone Wolf Custom Gear made a splash two years ago with the release of the first of the uber-light (and uber-pricey) stand systems tailored for run-and-gun, mobile-focused bowhunters. How to Silence a Tree Stand and Climbing Sticks My last video showed how to silence the buckles, but is there a better way? And is there a lighter way? Lone Wolf Climbing Rope and Tree Stand Modification: The strap and buckle that comes with the Lone Wolf climbing sticks and tree stand can be noisy due to the metal buckle. ![]()
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